Possibly wanted!? - front beam with adjusters

nee · Post by **nee** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 4:41 pm

I'm trying to persuade my wife that our 1967 bug needs to go lower.
I know it's almost a swear word on here, but i'm quite happy with the rear height of this car as it doesn't sit stupidly high, but 100% want to go lower on the front...nothing too silly, but an inch or so.
I don't know the first thing about lowering, but have had a conversation with someone who suggested that the easiest way is to get a front beam with adjusters already in it....that way i can just swap mine out and away i go.
Is it as easy as that? Does everything else stay the same...brakes etc?
Does anyone have one for sale? Just trying to gauge how much it's going to cost first...
Thanks all!

DreamWeaver · Post by **DreamWeaver** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 5:22 pm

Depending on how low you want to go from where the beam was
set before being fitting to your car, you'll probably need to adjust the
shims so you don't get too much positive camber at the front when lowed.
A set of 145/135's and a wheel alignments )witch is always a good idea) and you should be set DB

nee · Post by **nee** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 5:52 pm

Argh! Ok...

This is why i keep avoiding the whole lowering thing, as i just don't know enough about it!
I have looked in the lowering section of the forum and just end up totally confused

I only thought the camber was affected at the rear...so the front end has that towing in / out as well then as i only thought they went up / down?

OK...how much would someone want to do it for me? Just a rough guide price would be fine for now.
Or if i get the bits is anyone able to assist? I don't mind doing the work, but it would be ace to have someone on hand to assist a newbie.

captainvw · Post by **captainvw** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 7:31 pm

DreamWeaver wrote:Depending on how low you want to go from where the beam was
set before being fitting to your car, you'll probably need to adjust the
shims so you don't get too much positive camber at the front when lowed.
A set of 145/135's and a wheel alignments )witch is always a good idea) and you should be set DB

Shims are set from the measurement taken from offset between your trailing arms going lower will not change the camber what so ever!
Raising and lowering the front will affect toe in /toe out as will narrowing thats why we run quicksteers. Lowering the rear and raising the rear will affect your Caster Eg Cal look cars would benefit from running caster shims to help self centre the steering and help track straight
If you only want an inch you could just throw some adj in there

BUGBOY · Post by **BUGBOY** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 8:24 pm

Yeah you only need a pair of adjusters.

nee · Post by **nee** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 9:46 pm

lol
You guys make it sound real easy...

captainvw wrote: If you only want an inch you could just throw some adj in there

Ok, so to "throw" some adjusters in there..am i not better off trying to get a beam that's already been done as from what i gather these things need to be welded onto the beam?

whatnow · Post by **whatnow** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 10:19 pm

i'm no expert on this but if your car is a daily driver i'd try to get a second beam and have adjusters fitted along with any other things it needs so your car is only off the road for the time it takes to do the swap.
as for buying a second hand beam, you need to check it out first, or get it from someone trustworthy. as there are heaps of problems that could make your newly bought beam useless.
i found this out years ago when i bought a beam with adjusters fitted, when i got it home and cleaned it up the beam, one spindle and one link pin were bent... i cut out the adjusters and took off the steering box, the rest just went straight in the bin. a total waste of time and $.

captainvw · Post by **captainvw** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 6:16 am

I have a beam with adj welded in came out of Nafe's 65 before he fitted the 4.5 inch narrowed beam
100 bucks its yours its standard width so you can use your original leaves this way its a simple remove replace no welding or fab work needed
pm me if interested

StenchOfGoat · Post by **StenchOfGoat** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 8:04 am

pm sent captain

nee · Post by **nee** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 8:43 am

pm sent

Post by **hertz** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 9:14 am

StenchOfGoat wrote:pm sent captain

Cheeky

nee · Post by **nee** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 9:21 am

hertz wrote:
StenchOfGoat wrote:pm sent captain
Cheeky

StenchOfGoat · Post by **StenchOfGoat** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 10:06 am

hertz wrote:
StenchOfGoat wrote:pm sent captain
Cheeky

For the record, PM states if you still have it. Just a second in line hand up if Nee doesnt want it.

snEEk · Post by **snEEk** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 10:20 am

hertz wrote:
StenchOfGoat wrote:pm sent captain
Cheeky

like seagulls on a chip

Post by **hertz** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 10:49 am

All good mate.

dwcustoms · Post by **dwcustoms** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 3:44 pm

A SET OF DROP SPINDLES WILL DROP IT WITHOUT ANY ADJUSTERS NECESSARY... THIS WILL DROP THE RIDE BY 2" WITHOUT COMPROMISING STEERING GEOMETRY OR HAVING TO WELD ANYTHING...

DreamWeaver · Post by **DreamWeaver** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 6:00 pm

captainvw wrote:
DreamWeaver wrote:Depending on how low you want to go from where the beam was
set before being fitting to your car, you'll probably need to adjust the
shims so you don't get too much positive camber at the front when lowed.
A set of 145/135's and a wheel alignments )witch is always a good idea) and you should be set DB

Shims are set from the measurement taken from offset between your trailing arms going lower will not change the camber what so ever!
Raising and lowering the front will affect toe in /toe out as will narrowing thats why we run quicksteers. Lowering the rear and raising the rear will affect your Caster Eg Cal look cars would benefit from running caster shims to help self centre the steering and help track straight
If you only want an inch you could just throw some adj in there

i had to get the shims adj'd with mine (before i put my narrowed
beam in) i had adj stock width beam set about 3inch (there abouts)
too high and slammed it, and got some positive camber - i was told
it was the shims..
if its not the shims what is it that controls camber on the front wheels?

captainvw · Post by **captainvw** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 7:10 pm

dwcustoms wrote:A SET OF DROP SPINDLES WILL DROP IT WITHOUT ANY ADJUSTERS NECESSARY... THIS WILL DROP THE RIDE BY 2" WITHOUT COMPROMISING STEERING GEOMETRY OR HAVING TO WELD ANYTHING...

2.5''drop and 300+ bucks later thats if your king and link pins/bushes aren't rooted and more work than replacing a beam,by the time you press the link pin bushes out ,king pin out etc etc
just my 2c

captainvw · Post by **captainvw** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 7:17 pm

DreamWeaver wrote:
captainvw wrote:
DreamWeaver wrote:Depending on how low you want to go from where the beam was
set before being fitting to your car, you'll probably need to adjust the
shims so you don't get too much positive camber at the front when lowed.
A set of 145/135's and a wheel alignments )witch is always a good idea) and you should be set DB

Shims are set from the measurement taken from offset between your trailing arms going lower will not change the camber what so ever!
Raising and lowering the front will affect toe in /toe out as will narrowing thats why we run quicksteers. Lowering the rear and raising the rear will affect your Caster Eg Cal look cars would benefit from running caster shims to help self centre the steering and help track straight
If you only want an inch you could just throw some adj in there
i had to get the shims adj'd with mine (before i put my narrowed
beam in) i had adj stock width beam set about 3inch (there abouts)
too high and slammed it, and got some positive camber - i was told
it was the shims..
if its not the shims what is it that controls camber on the front wheels?

Shims control the camber Yes but you DO NOT get positive camber from slamming it who told you this anyways???????????????????????????????